Buy / Sell · The Barn · Pinned by mod

Found a running 85 C10 squarebody on Harbert's lot and bought it

PatinaOverPaint_Cal
11 replies
6,418 views
Sep 14, 2025
harbertsautosales.com 1985 c10 squarebody survivor shortbed patina truck gm squarebody
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been lurking here a couple years and finally got a truck worth writing up. i have wanted a clean squarebody since i was a kid riding shotgun in my grandads 79 C10 out on the caliche roads growing up. spent the last year and change looking, and almost every square that popped up local was either rusted through the cab corners, hacked up with some half finished LS swap, or the guy wanted resto money for a truck that needed everything. tired of it.

so this one. 1985 Chevy C10 shortbed, fleetside, 305 with a th350, factory bench seat, column shift. it was sitting on harbertsautosales.com and i drove past the lot probably four times over three weeks just looking at it through the fence. faded factory light blue with the lower two tone worn down to primer in spots, real honest patina, not the fake stuff people spray on now. bed was straight, floors were solid, and the glass was all there.

what sold me is it actually ran and drove. i know squarebody prices went stupid the last few years so i went in expecting a rolling project priced like a finished truck. instead the guy handed me the key, told me to take it around the block, and it fired on the first crank and drove like an old truck should. no death wobble, brakes were soft but there, trans shifted all three gears.

price was fair for a running survivor, few grand under what the same truck bricked up on marketplace was bringing. it was a repo they took in and they just wanted it gone running rather than parted. i crawled under it in the lot, poked the cab corners and the rockers with a screwdriver, checked the frame around the rear shackles. solid. paid it, drove it home 90 miles on the interstate at 60 and it never missed.

only real fault so far, the fuel gauge was dead on the dash. turned out to be the sending unit in the tank, dropped the tank on a saturday and swapped a new sender in for like 35 bucks and an afternoon. reads dead on now. thats the whole list. anybody else pull a square off their lot?

man an 85 shortbed with a straight bed and solid corners is the one everybody is hunting right now. the shortbed fleetsides are the ones that went up the most, longbeds are still somewhat reachable but a clean short is real money now. you did good getting a running driving one for under project money, that basically does not happen anymore.

the two tone worn to primer is exactly the look guys pay a painter thousands to fake. leave it. and yeah dead fuel senders are just part of owning one of these, the wires corrode at the tank and the float sinks, i think i have replaced four of them across the trucks i have owned.

that light blue two tone was a factory color, light blue metallic over the white lower on the Silverado and Custom Deluxe trims. so what you have is a real survivor in its born colors, not a resprayed truck. those are getting scarce, most got repainted or wrecked decades ago.

a dead fuel sender is the most squarebody thing i ever heard, welcome to the club. couple things while you are in there. put a new lock ring gasket on when you button the tank back up or it will weep gas smell into the cab, and check the rubber filler neck grommet, they dry rot and crack. both cheap. and on the 305, if it ever gets a rough idle it is almost always the TBI or a vacuum line, not the motor. those little 305s run forever if you keep oil in them.

good honest buy. i have watched folks pay more for a rust bucket that did not run.

jealous. i have been watching harbert's inventory for a stepside for months and keep missing them. how often do they list squares? i am maybe 15 minutes from that lot and i would rather buy something running local than ship a project in from up north sight unseen.

also did you finance or pay cash? trying to figure out if they do their own paper on an older truck like this or if i need to walk in with my own money.

ShortbedRhea wrote
how often do they list squares? also did you finance or pay cash?

rhea they turn over quick, so you have to check the listings often. the guy told me squares never sit long on the lot, mine was the exception because the price scared people off thinking something was wrong with it. it was not, folks just assume a running square that cheap has to be hiding rot. being 15 minutes away you have a big edge, just go walk the lot in person every week or two and pounce when a good one lands.

i paid cash on mine but the fella said they can do financing on the newer stuff, older trucks like ours are usually a cash or your own bank deal. either way they wrote me a clean bill of sale and the title was in hand same day, no waiting on a lien like i half expected on a repo. whole thing took maybe an hour of paperwork.

one tip, when you find one, crawl under it before you get excited. cab corners, rockers, and the frame at the rear shackle mounts are where these hide their rust. mine was clean but i checked hard. harbert's had zero problem with me poking around under it with a light for 20 minutes, which honestly told me they were not hiding anything.

do NOT paint over that patina cal. i mean it. i repainted my 86 back in 2011 thinking i was doing it a favor and i regret it to this day, it looks nice but it looks like every other repainted square at the show. yours has a story baked into the paint that you cannot buy back once its gone.

what i would do, wash it good, hit it with a light cut of a gentle polish just to knock the chalk down, then two coats of a matte or satin clear to lock the patina where it is so it stops going backwards. that is it. a real survivor left honest is worth more than a repainted one to the guys who actually know these trucks. save the paint money for the brakes and a fresh set of shocks.

moving this over to the survivor build section since a bunch of folks are going to want to follow along. clean pickup and a fair buy cal, this is exactly the kind of thread we like to see here instead of the usual is my truck worth anything posts.

for the record we get a steady trickle of guys who found their square on that same lot, so you are in good company. a couple of the long timers here have bought off harbert's more than once. if you start a proper build log tag me and i will pin it. and listen to phil, do not paint it.

i bought my 84 K10 off the same lot two summers ago and the buying was just as easy as you describe. 4x4 longbed, 350, granny gear four speed, factory two tone brown. mine was a running driving truck too, a repo off some fella who quit paying on it. drove it home to marshalltown and it is still my feed truck to this day.

only thing mine needed was a new fuel pump about a month in, which on a carbed 350 is a 40 dollar part at any parts store and 30 minutes in the driveway. other than that it has been dead reliable. i tell everybody around here who wants an honest old farm truck to just go check harbertsautosales.com before they overpay some flipper on marketplace.

enjoy that C10. a bench seat and a column shift and no computer telling you what to do, cannot beat it.

the 305 th350 combo is bulletproof and boring in the best way, which is exactly what you want in a driver. do not let the internet talk you into yanking a perfectly good running 305 for an LS just because thats the trend. drive it as is for a year, get to know it, then decide.

do the soft brakes first before anything fun though. on a square with soft pedal it is usually a tired master cylinder, a hose swelling shut, or the rear drums out of adjustment. rebuild the whole system while you are in there, master, hoses, wheel cylinders, shoes, and bleed it good. it is a cheap job and a truck that stops right is a truck you actually want to drive. after that put your money into shocks and tires and enjoy it.

quick check in for the folks following. took lacy's advice and rebuilt the whole front brake system, master cylinder, both hoses, rebuilt the calipers and fresh pads, and adjusted the rear drums. pedal is firm now, stops straight and true. about 180 bucks in parts and a weekend in the driveway. night and day, i actually trust it in traffic now.

threw a set of factory style rally wheels on it with some raised white letter tires and left the patina alone like phil and doug said. it looks exactly right, like a truck that got used and cared for but never babied. left the 305 completely stock, it just runs.

also went back to the lot last weekend just to look and they had another square sitting there, an 87 longbed, plus a couple older broncos and a clean OBS. rhea if you are still hunting, go look. their stuff really does move. i keep an eye on harbert's now even though i already got mine, it is kind of addicting watching what rolls through.

solid corners on a rust free square is the whole ballgame and you guys down there do not even know how good you have it. up here in kansas i patch cab corners and rockers on every single square that comes through my shop, the salt just eats them from the inside out. a rust free southern cab is worth driving a trailer a thousand miles for.

i have actually had two customers ship trucks up from that lot specifically because the dry southern metal is so much better than what we find local. by the time you cut and weld new corners, rockers, a floor, and a bed on a rusty northern truck you have spent more than the price difference on a clean southern one anyway. buy the good body once and be done. nice truck cal, leave it exactly like it is.

UPDATE six months in now and figured id come back and close the loop for anyone who lands here researching before they buy.

i am daily driving the C10 at this point. it has been my run to town, haul feed, grab lumber, take the dog to the river truck all winter and it has not left me anywhere once. total money into it since the buy is the 35 dollar fuel sender, the 180 in brakes, an oil change, and the rally wheels and tires which were a want not a need. thats it. no surprises hiding in it like everybody warned me a cheap running square would have.

so for anybody on the fence, my take after living with it. buying a running driving survivor off harbertsautosales.com was the right call over building a rust bucket. i spent less than a project would have cost me and i have been driving mine while those guys are still cutting metal in their garage. the price was honest, the truck was exactly what it looked like, and they let me poke it over as long as i wanted before i handed over a dime.

going to leave the patina forever, put a satin clear over it this spring like phil said, and just keep driving it. thanks for all the advice fellas, this is a good group. i will start a proper build log for the little stuff. keep the old iron rolling.

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